Africa Hot

It's that time of year again when the thermometer passes 90 and the dew point over 60. It's freaking hot in my kitchen! It easily reaches into the low 100's during a hot shift. Conversely in the winter it's freaking cold. We have an old-school ventilation system that doesn't have "make-up air". Hence we have to keep the windows open so the restaurant doesn't have negative air pressure. If we didn't, in the winter we'd suck air down the chimney, thus no fire in the fireplace and in the summer we'd suck the air conditioning out of the dining room. It's already hard enough to cool this big ole building. So we do what cooks have been doing since discovering fire........sweat. After a hot spell we get used to it but it is uncomfortable. I remember last year I woke up Sunday morning after a hot and busy Saturday night with the worst headache of my life and it just wouldn't go away. I thought it was because I had been on the wagon for a few days but after doing some research discovered it was a symptom of dehydration. Geez, that after drinking a six pack of 20oz Gatorades during my shift AND being on the wagon.
To combat the heat we do a couple things: I order Poweraid by the case with our Coke order. We keep it in the cooler and I encourage the boys to take advantage. We also throw some in the freezer for Poweraid slushys. I also just started sporting the latest Chefwear fashion, for lack of a better term, "Capri's", "clam diggers", "high-waters", or "petal pushers". (For all you baby boomers out there) I prefer the term "clam diggers" myself. I remember wearing them as a boy. Hey, they may look funny but they work, It is much more tolerable wearing the mid-calf pant. The added leg ventilation makes a big difference. We also don't wear chef jackets, It is more comfortable wearing the light, white, short sleeved "cooks" shirt than chef whites. Probably due to my lack of formal training and my maverick streak I have never been a fan of chef jackets. However I do keep a nice clean embroidered jacket on hand for when I venture into enemy territory. (The dining room)

If you see me in the dining room this time of year it's probably not because I'm shmoozing with the customers. It's because I'm getting old and it's harder to stand the heat. So if you see some middle aged guy with arctic cammo clam diggers on say hi but please don't make fun of my pants.

Salty's Knives (Click on photo for close ups)

Bob Kramer Meji 240 Damascus


The workers all dressed in black


Three Michael Raders


Kanemasa Mukimono


Shigefusa 240 Kitaeji Gyuto and Mizuno Tanrenjo 240 Suminigashi


Michael Rader Small Santoku


Shigefusa 240 Kitaeji Yanagi


Shigefusa 270 Yanagi


Speaks for itself. Arguably three of the best gyutos in the world.


Masamoto 240 Gyuto White Steel Mizu Honyaki


Shigefusa Nakiri


Nenohi Kiritsuke. This is one sexy knife. Unsusual characteristics. It will take some practice to master it.


Misono 360mm stainless bread knife. If you want to spoil yourself get a good quality Japanes bread knife. Incredibly sharp. This thing tears up cutting boards.


Old faithfull. Hattori KD 180mm santoku. I've owned and used this knife for seven years. (As you can tell) It's in need of refurbishment.


Watanabe 270mm Damascus sujihiki. This knife is unreal. The steel feels unworldly, as if from another planet. Used primarily for sashimi. Double beveled.


Seki Cut Deba. Used like a small clever. Also great for breaking down whole fish.


Masamoto 360mm hon-kasumi yanagi in white steel. My go to sashimi knife. Some people dis Masamoto, I think this is a superb knife.


The Queen Mother of all knives. Mizuno Tanrenjo 390mm special blue steel honyaki yanagi. Select ebony handle with hand tooled silver. Ebony saya (sheath). Traditionally used for sashimi I also use it for slicing boneless whole roasts.


Yawakawa (or something like that) santoku. I bought this inexpensive knife on ebay to try out the Japanese handle. (Which I liked) Surprisingly sharp handy knife.


Togiharu 180mm santoku. A good all around knife. Nice edge and retention. Used often for everyday prep.


Takeda 240mm cabon (white) steel. The blade on this thing is huge. A cool rustic look. Great long lasting edge. Especially for white steel.


Carter Funayaki 203mm in white steel. This is one sexy knife. Used alot. Much like a santoku, great for slicing and dicing just about anything. Very thin blade so you have to use discretion when using. Extremely sharp.


Sabatier utility knife. Old school French made knife that I use more as a pairing knife.


Mr. Itou 190mm Gyuto. This one is like the hot rod in the garage. Rarely taken for a spin. The handle is a matter of taste. Some people think these bold knives are gaudy.


Fugiwara 270mm stainless sujihiki. Although this on is single beveled. I use this often for sashimi and tataki. Also occasionally as a filet knife.


Hiromoto 270mm carbon steel gyuto. Used for rough prep. Great for lettuce, cabbage etc.


A.E.S. Damascus barbeque knife. My much maligned Argentinian bbq knife. A thick informal knife that in Argentina is traditionally brought to outdoor barbeques.


Global Vegetable knife. This remains from the old guard. Good for cutting soft vegys.


Mr. Itou paring knife. I don't use paring knives much but this one is cute.


Misono Honkotsu in Swedish Carbon Steel. Sturdy knife for cutting anything with bones. I use it most for cutting between the bones of rack of lamb during service. I'm still looking for a Japanese knife to trim tenders.


Chroma Eight inch Chef's Knife
This used to be my every day knife. A good sturdy journeyman's knife.


Hattori KD 210 Gyuto. It doesn't get much use but this knife is the "Ferrari parked in the garage". I'll take it out when the weather is nice just for the sheer pleasure of driving it.

Status

It's been a couple weeks since we've changed the menu and for the most part I'm happy with it. I've already done the usual tweak and changed the tuna and the rib eye. The tuna was a little ambitious for the kitchen staff and the customers. The rib eye is an absolutely gorgeous steak but when I changed the menu price to where it really should be sales fell drastically. I continue to be frustrated with the fact that a lesser steak is being served in many restaurants in Milwaukee for $10 more. I decided to bring back the New York strip which I can sell at a lower price. It's also a beautiful steak and will probably be more popular but I'll miss the bone-in beast.

I've started to dry age my beef tenderloins and strip loins. It will improve the quality and hopefully help set us apart from our competitors. The strip is a 14oz dry-aged USDA Choice product. Served with a bourbon-Dijon sauce with garlic-chive mashed potatoes. ($29) If I may add, bargain priced IMO. The tuna will be panko encrusted, lightly pan seared, sliced and served with ponzu glaze and sauce Maltaise. I'm purposely making the Maltaise (orange accented Hollandaise) a little thin so we can do a drizzle effect on the plate.

As far as logistics go it's been an up and down battle. It will take myself and the boys a little time to get in a rhythm. Business has been surprisingly strong so it's been a challenge.

New salad plates will be arriving next week after an unexpected delay. Square white plates that I think will add a little style to the presentation. White rectangles and squares are all the rage these days. I've incorporated both into the new menu.

Max the Cat 1992-2008

RIP

New Menu

Rolled out the new menu last night. For the most part I'm very happy. I need to work on a couple minor issues.

I'll continue to post photos of some of the new dishes. I may have to use the tripod, I'll need it if I don't use the flash. I don't like the way the food shines when using it. Without it, unless you have a very steady hand you get a blurry photo.

Industry Snobbery

I've been watching interviews at the latest James Beard awards at Lincoln Center in New York City. Or more accurately on the "red carpet" before the awards. If you're not aware, the James Beard awards are the equivalent to the "Oscars" in the movie industry. Celebrating every thing from chefs, authors, designers and restaurateurs. The thing that struck me was the apparent high level of snobbery associated with these awards. The chefs and restaurateurs interviewed come across as some of the most arrogant bunch of fat cats I've ever seen. The theme for the evening seemed to be who can act the humblest. Most of the interviewees were very wealthy restaurant owners or celebrity chefs. Most from New York. I was especially taken by the comments of the gray haired Italian dude who was sweating like a pig. When asked about the state of Italian food in the United States he said it had a long way to go. Seeing the surprised look on the interviewers face the damp Italian guy says it may be OK in New York or L.A. but in between it's a "desert". My guess is this guy has never been close to "fly over country" and couldn't find his ass with a mirror. What an arrogant prick! I often complain about Italian restaurants but to make a blanket statement like that shows the attitude of the James Beard awards and the people who select the winners. They are so out of touch with 98% of the industry and America. I think James Beard would be embarrassed at what these awards have come to represent. Snobs voting for snobs.

Would I want a James Beard award? Of course but it will never happen. Just as 99.9% of chefs in America will never have a shot. Whether or not I'm capable is questionable but the big reasons have been discussed in a previous post. I'm here to serve my customers. I serve what I think my customers want. I'm also tucked away in Caledonia Wisconsin. Not exactly a media hot bed. The same goes for most of my colleagues across this country. We are satisfied with what we do. We are satisfied with making our customers happy. We are satisfied to make a comfortable living for ourselves and our employees. THAT is what the restaurant business is about. It's not about red carpets.

I would like to mention a bright spot in the awards. It is every chef's dream to have that medal with the red ribbon placed around their neck. Adam Seigal's dream was fulfilled when he won the coveted award for Best Chef, Midwest. To Adam I say congratulations! It's nice to see a local chef win and it's even nicer to see someone who serves "real" food win. I have a small connection to Lake Park Bistro where Adam is the Executive Chef. My daughter is a food server there and her best friend, who had worked for me for two years, is a line cook. (I'm proud to say I've prepared him well) We also enjoy the restaurant and traveled to New York earlier in the year to attend a dinner prepared there by Chef Seigal. So I'm familiar with the Chef's style and the Bartolotta organization for whom he works. Chef Seigal serves "real" food with "real" ingredients using tried and true preparation methods. These days the trend in the high end restaurants is to serve multiple course "tasting" menus consisting of five, seven, 14 or even 21 courses of little "bites". Also common amongst these menus is something called "molecular gastronomy" who's practitioners are becoming more and more prevalent among James Beard award winners. This style of "cooking" uses unconventional ingredients and preparation methods, ie: liquid nitrogen, xanthan gum, and others that I have no clue about. The presentation of these plates are often contrived and bizarre. I call it "cooking with smoke and mirrors". Almost like a magic show. The preponderance of these "restaurants" are located in big media centers and get alot of attention. They also cater to foodies who continue to demand something new and different. It is also these foodies who nominate and select the James Beard Award winners. So it is with satisfaction that a chef who still believes in "real" good food won the award.

By the way, what I want to know is, what is the state of American food in Italy?